There are no easy ways to get to Pyongyang, I went via Helsinki and Beijing.  At the lounge in the airport in Beijing at around 6am, there's a man in a tuxedo, tie undone, shirt unbuttoned a bit, but still unmistakably in a tuxedo.  He's pacing a lot, gesticulating wildly and speaking rapid fire into his mobile in Cantonese.  I wonder what circumstances lead to finding yourself in a business class lounge in Beijing at 6 am in a tuxedo. My back story is so boring.

Some places seem shut so tight no light gets in or out. There's no path in, you have to slide in, sometimes sideways, sometimes in disguise, and sometimes, your job sends you. A big part of my work is making the path, by walking, by talking, by having tea and having arguments. 

The breakfast room could be straight out of a Wes Anderson movie. All the servers are the same height, wearing the same uniform, same makeup. No nametags. Each guest sits alone at their own table. No mixing is permitted. Traditional music is being played on the sound system. I ask one of the servers what the music is, as I've a nagging feeling I've heard it before. "Music written by Kim Jong Un." she replies. I return to my table and realize it's actually Yellow by Coldplay being plonked out on traditional instruments.
 



My handlers ask if I want to go on a sightseeing tour. I'm not sure if I have a choice. "You're very lucky, it's high season so everything is open." they tell me. Lucky indeed to have survived the crowds.
 


I admit to myself, I'm having a good time. Having spent a lot of time in Russia, I've developed a love for that spirited, somewhat brutalist, giant sculpture style. When driving along the "highway" I see the fabled giant sculptures of Kim Il Sun and Kim Jong Il. "Oh, oh! Can we go see that?" I ask, giddy like a small child. This thrills my handlers and we head off in that direction. It is tradition when getting married to stop and lay flowers before the statues. I'm now in dozens of couples wedding photos I'm sure.



My handlers and I start having much more free-ish conversation. We talk about Swedish films, Russian embalming techniques, and how much I loved the Moscow Metro. "Oh! Do you want to see? We will show you!"

And that's how I ended up riding the Pyongyang metro, not on a tour, just with my two "friends".



 I look back and see my tracks have already filled with dust.  But I keep walking.

Oubaitori

Aug. 8th, 2024 06:12 pm
After a long search, many referrals, cross checking with friends, colleagues and other doctors, we sat in the oncologist's office.  She's a native Singaporean, about 160cm (5ft) tall, around 50, and very chic.  She lays out the road ahead of us in Oxford English, detailing what the next year or more holds in store.  Still numb from the diagnosis, I'm coping by compartmentalizing and going into health emergency manager mode.  I've already started a binder full of copies of tests, notes, everything, backed up in PDF online, with a standardized file name system of date and subject, sorted into both a chron folder and copied into subject specific folders.  He's all business, taking this on like any treaty negotiation, looking for a win.  But there may not be one.

If you're going to have lymphome, Hodgkin's is the one to get, but the stats don't matter much when you're in the office.

Are we going to be ok?

"The escalated BEACOPP protocol is difficult, and more toxic, but highly effective." she says.

"Just like you." he says and winks at me.  We're going to be fine.

"Do you have any other questions?" she asks before we go back to the rental apartment that will be home base in Singapore during treatment.

"Um... What about sex?  If you can't get the chemicals on your skin because they can be corrosive, does it secrete in semen?"

She looks down, bites her lip, smiles a bit, laughs.  "So few people ask this. Yes, precautions are a good idea. There's not a lot of data."

I see her on the hospital campus one day when I'm taking a break from the arctic air conditioning of the chemo suite.

"How long have you been together?"

"About two years."

"Ah, lah, the real deal."

"What do you mean?"

"People come in, together for decades, this can tear them apart.  People together later, smarter, after you stop running against anyone but yourself. That choice sticks.  Smile, we fix your man."

I remember not long after we met and he asked if he was competing with my future ex husband. "No, you're competing with me."

"Let's go then!" and he winked.
I moved to Indonesia about two and a half years ago. I'd been here before on short work assignments so knew a bit more about the country than most but for those of you who don't know much,here's a primer:
  • The worlds 4th most populous nation, with 285+ million people
  • The world's largest archipelagic nation, spread across over 17,500 islands, of which about 7,000 are inhabited.
  • Indonesians speak 718 different regional langauge
  • One commmon across the country Bahasa Indonesia, literally Indonesian language.
  • Zero fucks given if you don't undestand any of these languages. If you don't speak the language, you better learn if you want things to go well.

I tried classes at work, but the teachers were weird and the material was irrelevant. I don't need to say "the pen is on the table", I need to say "we need to revise this guideline". Guideline by the way is Pedoman, which if you're a native English speaker makes you glitch a bit when you get an email with the subject PEDOMAN.

I glitch a lot.

The honorific used when addressing a woman of my age is Ibu. Mother. Sadly,this sounds just like hibou in French which means owl. People come to my office saying "Ibu ibu" and I think whoooo whoooo.

The verb to like is suka. This is bitch in Russian. You can imagine.

But I forged on, like many people, when in a new place with a new language when you're having a hard time making friends among the locals, you go online and ... Get out of the gutter dear reader- I am referring to DuoLingo.

We know apps eavesdrop on us, but Duolingo is especially creepy. Not because it stalks you across platforms like a bad Tinder date when you ignore it, but because of the lengths it goes to in order to deliver on the promise of a tailored langauge experience.

It started out innocently enough, with the usually slightly unhinged things we all get from Duo but are still marginally useful like

Kuching saya tidak suka gaun merah Anda. My cat does not like your red dress.
Mereka tinggi dan kaya. They are tall and rich.
Restoran ini kotor dan makanannya tidak enak. This restaurant is dirty and their food is not good.

But since I moved, the bulk of my communication with my Future Ex Husband (FEH) has been over whatsapp calls and that bird has been taking notes. The sentences I have been given have changed. A LOT.

Kamu tidak menjadi lebih tampan. You have not become more handsome.
Aku sedang menggali lubang di taman untukmu. I am digging a hole in the garden for you.
Aku sedih karena kamu bodoh. I am sad because you are stupid.

5 star review on the app store.
My kids call it a blip in the matrix. I don't know what to call it.

You visit family, even in a war zone, although it was a white war zone, and still had a happening bar scene and ice cream trucks. Childhood memories visiting family in Belfast ranged from air band contests and ice cream headaches to learning what kneecapping meant, getting the hell out of town the week of 12 July and learning from (barely) older cousins that you had to put dish soap in with the petrol in a molotov cocktail so the flames would spread and stick, allowing for better photos in the press. That one cousin worked at the Europa Hotel bar, the most bombed hotel in Europe at the time (33 times between 1971 and 1994). This is my baseline.

As an adult, living in Switzerland, I went back, while dating a guy who was working there, and spending quite a lot of time in Belfast. The city was alive, great nightlife, culture, there was a mosque on Landsdowne Road and the barriers in the walls were all open. Everything seemed normal, but just a bit off. There's still a bunch of kids setting furniture on fire where the Ulster Youth Militants used to hang out.

My Belfast man (who was Greek actually) had a shit car. It died one night on the way to the cinema and we pushed it off to an empty parking lot. Called the auto club, no big deal. Until an armored police van pulled in and two police in full riot gear stepped out, clubs drawn, asking what we were doing. Once it was clear we were just stupid, not dangerous, they told us we couldn't leave the car there or it would be removed and detonated and had to move it in an hour.

While driving, I found myself in the wrong lane and had to cut across three lanes of rush hour traffic. Not a single honk, everyone just stopped, waved me past. Where can anyone do that?

A red panda kept escaping from the zoo and going to a shopping mall nearby. I saw it once standing by the claw machine peering inside.


Blips. Just blips.
I got left at the altar. By myself.

Not that I was standing there alone, like some sad movie character. I mean I left myself at the altar.

A lifetime of moving from place to place and country to country transitioned easily into a nomadic adulthood. The revelation that I was lucky enough to be able to monetize my trauma coping skills of being able for forecast at light speed what would go wrong with people and situations into a career in crisis management sent me to places your government tends to tell you to avoid. I referred to places by airport codes.

“I’m headed to CXB via DXB and BAN.” was a normal and understandable sentence.

Suddenly, I’m 36 and starting to wonder if the next guy who asks me to marry him might be the last. Nothing else in my life had been what I was supposed to do, but I had my mid-life crisis early, always been an overachiever, and thought, shit. Maybe I should get married. So when he asked, I said yes.
He was good on paper. Stable, scientist, claimed to accept what I did and who I was and was not going to ask me to change. And I believed it, I bought it all and hoped that the prize would be that calm domesticity that I did not have in my childhood of broken glasses, thrown plates and fists through wallboard, or my adulthood of war zones, refugee camps and outbreaks.

It was. For a while.

Then the kids came. Then the depression and isolation and just. Not. Being. Built. For. This. But who is?
As the days and years passed, I settled into my new life as a married single parent. A driven woman who had it all, including a hapless roommate who tried to have sex with me all the time and whined about how hard his life was as a white man with a PhD in today’s world. Who could possibly be as hard done by as he by the world? Don’t answer, that conversation doesn’t end well.

I spent years making myself small to keep him from feeling like what he had become, a tiny, sad, slip of a man. Where did I get the idea that I owed him that?

Just like those self-satisfied Instagram reels say, the years pass in the blink of an eye and the kids, still young, were self-aware, self sufficient and seeing my unhappiness every day. I couldn’t raise men like that. I owed the world better. I owed myself better.

So I engineered my departure, ensuring the kids were in the loop. The husband? Who cares. His world is a population of one. I went back and got who I was before all of this and went back to doing what made me feel alive, made me want to be alive.

He keeps shrinking while I remember what it’s like to be in my skin, in my head.

Then without warning, one day at a conference, a sly character in a very nice suit is seated next to me and we crack jokes and have an easy conversation and he says “You like boats? I was going to rent a boat tomorrow. Can you bring some beer?”

I did bring beer, and what I’d left behind last time.
I am a long-term expatriate, having lived outside of the countries issuing any of my 3 passports for the majority of my life. I currently live in a dirty, crowded, sinking, megacity with terrible traffic, poor air quality and a taste among the expatriate community to love hating life here.

My apartment is large and luxurious, with an immaculate gym and pool at my disposal and a short walk to my well appointed office. I do not hate it here, not very often anyway. I have a great circle of friends, good work/life balance for the most part, and can afford to outsource the mundane tasks that lengthened my mental laundry list in "more civilized" places, whatever that may mean.

This is the sin. The locals are weird, housing is crap, traffic is terrible, schools are expensive, it’s almost impossible for an expat to get a job, there aren’t a lot of people who speak English- it is unfashionable, unfathomable, that you would make the conscious choice when waking in the morning to not actively hate where you live.

I was that person, long ago in Moscow, in another century even, so many postings back and ignorant of how good I had it, sick of the endless cold and dark of winter and the hearts of my coworkers. Nauseated by the stench of wet fur and the vodka fumes being sweat out of the pores of others when sandwiched between some random Ivan and Natasha on the endless escalator down into the metro. It’s easy to hate a place for the hard parts. Any place. It is more fun to embrace the lunacy and strap in for the ride.

Complaining is easy and entertaining, few want to hang out at the bar and listen to how delighted someone is that their cleaning lady folds all their laundry into perfect cubes and organizes their clothes by type and color. Or that mango and avocado, plentiful and cheap, left on the counter in the morning are transformed into cubes in neat boxes in the refrigerator when returning from work. Affordable massages and friendly spas are not cause for celebration. An array of world class beaches reachable for the weekend is nothing to smile about. Enjoyment is inappropriate in this place of despair, frustrating and utter different-ness. Do not love this damaged place. We did not move here to fall in love with damage, we moved for a perfect life and it has fallen short. Again.

I understand the ease of this, and the amusement that can come from it, but I no longer have the ability to wake up, choose to be unhappy every day and just survive until nightfall. So now I am boring. I am watching the distance grow between myself and old acquaintances. My willingness to just be here, to learn some new words, to laugh off feeling like a giant white monster when shopping for clothes, and to revel in the pleasures afforded here that may not be present at the next posting. I sin every day, committing myself to loving the damaged bits, making every place home instead of longing for that perfect place that may not even exist.

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tamara_in_jakarta

August 2024

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